Comments on: Putting extra insulation on wall that gets the most wind.? http://insulationmaterials.info/putting-extra-insulation-on-wall-that-gets-the-most-wind.html Benefits of Insulation - your home will be energy efficient with the highest R-Value. Products include Spray Foam, Rockwool and Cellulose Thu, 15 Sep 2011 05:21:15 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.1.3 By: Jeff B http://insulationmaterials.info/putting-extra-insulation-on-wall-that-gets-the-most-wind.html/comment-page-1#comment-1103 Jeff B Tue, 06 Jul 2010 07:47:01 +0000 http://insulationmaterials.info/putting-extra-insulation-on-wall-that-gets-the-most-wind.html#comment-1103 certainly having a higher r value means less heat transfer. As far as wind is concerned, air doesn't carry much heat energy. It is the water (humidity) which does. House wrap, like tyvek is meant for the purpose of keeping wind from penetrating. A home I worked in first sprayed foam-like insulation into the stud spaces (after caulking as usual) and coated the back of the sheathing and the joints between the studs and sheathing. Then they used batting. This seemed like a reasonably cost-efficient way to insulate. Devere was the name of the company that did it. Im in MD, USA. Something that might interest you: on an episode of "Smash Lab" on Discovery channel, they were looking for a way to prevent fire from damaging a home, (in the situation of a forest fire) and they talked about a substance called aerogel. This material is like plexiglass in appearance and structure. It is fire resistant. It blocks all heat transfer. Only problem with it is it is clear, and so infrared still penetrates. So they took carbon fiber, which does block infrared, and used them in combination. If they made aerogel in 4x8 sheets, it would be perfect for sheathing on a home and would give it a near 100% insulation rating. If the house wrap blocked UV and Infrared light then you would have a perfectly efficient home. certainly having a higher r value means less heat transfer. As far as wind is concerned, air doesn’t carry much heat energy. It is the water (humidity) which does. House wrap, like tyvek is meant for the purpose of keeping wind from penetrating.

A home I worked in first sprayed foam-like insulation into the stud spaces (after caulking as usual) and coated the back of the sheathing and the joints between the studs and sheathing.
Then they used batting. This seemed like a reasonably cost-efficient way to insulate. Devere was the name of the company that did it. Im in MD, USA.

Something that might interest you: on an episode of "Smash Lab" on Discovery channel, they were looking for a way to prevent fire from damaging a home, (in the situation of a forest fire) and they talked about a substance called aerogel.
This material is like plexiglass in appearance and structure.
It is fire resistant. It blocks all heat transfer. Only problem with it is it is clear, and so infrared still penetrates. So they took carbon fiber, which does block infrared, and used them in combination.
If they made aerogel in 4×8 sheets, it would be perfect for sheathing on a home and would give it a near 100% insulation rating. If the house wrap blocked UV and Infrared light then you would have a perfectly efficient home.

]]> By: fluffernut http://insulationmaterials.info/putting-extra-insulation-on-wall-that-gets-the-most-wind.html/comment-page-1#comment-1104 fluffernut Tue, 06 Jul 2010 07:47:01 +0000 http://insulationmaterials.info/putting-extra-insulation-on-wall-that-gets-the-most-wind.html#comment-1104 Do the whole house as it's not just the wind side that looses heat in winter and cool in summer. BTW, you are increasing, not decreasing energy efficiency. Number one priority, the ceiling, get the proper insulation there as well (and then some??) also the new info on attic ventilating. I wouldn't consider anything less than 2x6 studs and insulation. The savings in lumber wouldn't amount to a hill of beans when compared with heat/cool loss. Also don't cut $$ when selecting and installing windows/doors. Get it right the first time. Don't go on the cheap, it rarely pays. That's not to say you can't modify your landscape to include creating a wind barrier through evergreens or other ways on that windy side. Do the whole house as it’s not just the wind side that looses heat in winter and cool in summer. BTW, you are increasing, not decreasing energy efficiency. Number one priority, the ceiling, get the proper insulation there as well (and then some??) also the new info on attic ventilating. I wouldn’t consider anything less than 2×6 studs and insulation. The savings in lumber wouldn’t amount to a hill of beans when compared with heat/cool loss. Also don’t cut $$ when selecting and installing windows/doors. Get it right the first time. Don’t go on the cheap, it rarely pays.

That’s not to say you can’t modify your landscape to include creating a wind barrier through evergreens or other ways on that windy side.

]]> By: BLUEJAY57 http://insulationmaterials.info/putting-extra-insulation-on-wall-that-gets-the-most-wind.html/comment-page-1#comment-1105 BLUEJAY57 Tue, 06 Jul 2010 07:47:01 +0000 http://insulationmaterials.info/putting-extra-insulation-on-wall-that-gets-the-most-wind.html#comment-1105 If your thinking of building the house with 2x6s I would build all the outside walls with 2x6s and install a R19 rating. The r is Resistance to heat and cold. the higher the R rating the better insulation. Blow a cellouse insulation in the attic area at lease to a R 30 or better. On your inside wall that is next to say the garage use R13 for warmth and noise.If you want a tight house put a barrier of poly over the insulation. Putting foam on the outside, you may drawn mole. The more insulation the better, it is worth the money.. hope this helps If your thinking of building the house with 2x6s I would build all the outside walls with 2x6s and install a R19 rating. The r is Resistance to heat and cold. the higher the R rating the better insulation. Blow a cellouse insulation in the attic area at lease to a R 30 or better. On your inside wall that is next to say the garage use R13 for warmth and noise.If you want a tight house put a barrier of poly over the insulation. Putting foam on the outside, you may drawn mole. The more insulation the better, it is worth the money.. hope this helps

]]> By: Alphastream http://insulationmaterials.info/putting-extra-insulation-on-wall-that-gets-the-most-wind.html/comment-page-1#comment-1106 Alphastream Tue, 06 Jul 2010 07:47:01 +0000 http://insulationmaterials.info/putting-extra-insulation-on-wall-that-gets-the-most-wind.html#comment-1106 Air transfer/movement is a way that you lose heat from a home. Adding additional insulation on the side of the house that has the most wind may help, though it is unlikely to help significantly if you do not already have a high R-Value along the rest of the home (heat transfers to the coldest area). 2X6 walls are highly recommended throughout the house. Building codes in many areas now require 2X6 in order to provide sufficient R-Value. The type of insulation matters greatly. Insulation such as cellulose and foam will seal the wall cavity, preventing moisture and air movement. Batt insulaton (fiberglass or blue jean) will not do as good a job. The cost of insulation is fairly high, but will return money on the investement in almost every case. Take a look at your heating bills and compare to neighbors with similar sized homes. If you have higher bills, insulation is a great idea (and probably throughout the home). A great first step is to pay roughly $100 US to hire an energy audit professional who will conduct a blower test and infrared test to determine the insulation you have and where heat is escaping your home. They make recommendations and even estimate the return on investment. Many cities offer free versions of this audit (without the blower test). One of the links below also provides a do-it-yourself audit, though the blower test is recommended. Insulation is one of the best improvements you can make for energy efficiency, but it should also be weighed against the cost-benefit of a new refrigerator (tremendous benefit), furnace, washer/drier, dishwasher, and other areas where efficiency allways pays off. Air transfer/movement is a way that you lose heat from a home. Adding additional insulation on the side of the house that has the most wind may help, though it is unlikely to help significantly if you do not already have a high R-Value along the rest of the home (heat transfers to the coldest area).

2X6 walls are highly recommended throughout the house. Building codes in many areas now require 2X6 in order to provide sufficient R-Value.

The type of insulation matters greatly. Insulation such as cellulose and foam will seal the wall cavity, preventing moisture and air movement. Batt insulaton (fiberglass or blue jean) will not do as good a job.

The cost of insulation is fairly high, but will return money on the investement in almost every case. Take a look at your heating bills and compare to neighbors with similar sized homes. If you have higher bills, insulation is a great idea (and probably throughout the home). A great first step is to pay roughly $100 US to hire an energy audit professional who will conduct a blower test and infrared test to determine the insulation you have and where heat is escaping your home. They make recommendations and even estimate the return on investment. Many cities offer free versions of this audit (without the blower test). One of the links below also provides a do-it-yourself audit, though the blower test is recommended.

Insulation is one of the best improvements you can make for energy efficiency, but it should also be weighed against the cost-benefit of a new refrigerator (tremendous benefit), furnace, washer/drier, dishwasher, and other areas where efficiency allways pays off.

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